observations from moving the steering rack from the stock location about 2" rearward and clamped to the x-member.
instead of trying to drill the holes from the front where there is little room, and which also requires several drill bits, cutting drill bits to the right length etc., i put a regular short bit through from the front and made a little mark where the tip touches the x-member. then i took a c-clamp and put the edge of the clamp on the mark and put a dot on the opposing side of the clamp. then i was able to drill the holes from the back side of the x-member. this also ensured i could fine tune the position of the holes so they would be far enough away from the walls of the x-member (its a tight fit). one should really enlarge the rear hole and insert a tube so the x-member isnt subjected to the clamping force.
im using the stock lines and they fit with some bending. i needed to make a tiny notch in the rack housing to clear the x-member. i cut down my breeze offset aluminum bushing with a hacksaw, and rotated them to the raised position. (ive also installed the very sweet breeze bump steer kit which uses the raised position). i think the rack would fit in the lower position with more modification of the rack housing.
i also modified my flaming rack rag joint eliminator by smoothing the binding edges of the upper u-joint, shortening the steering shaft extension slightly and put a spacer between the shaft mount and the frame to reduce the angle of the upper u-joint, and of course cut down the middle shaft between the u joints. i checked for binding in both u joints at slightly greater than the installed angle. i measured the length of the shaft that would not fall out if the steering wheel was pulled all the way out (this way even if the driver was to pull the wheel hard enough to move the shaft spacers the steering would remain coupled). then i measured the maximum length of the shaft between the u-joints that allowed assembly without removing the rack itself. looks good.
its very important that there are double safeguards against losing steering.
to get the rack into the right position when you are close, i took a bolt and ground it into a point. then you can slip it in and push the rack into the exact location without trying to shove the blunt bolt in there.
i used the harbor freight right angle drill adapter; it lasted 4 holes and then broke a tooth off inside.